Khartoum: Under the pale morning light, Abdulilah Mohamed made his way through the shattered streets of Sharg Elnil in Khartoum. For the first time since civil war forced him to flee, he stood before the remnants of his once-vibrant family home—now reduced to crumbling walls and scattered debris.
“They left nothing behind, they took everything and destroyed everything,” he said, referring to the Rapid Support Forces (RSF), as he surveyed the devastation left by two years of brutal conflict.
Mohamed is among the millions who were uprooted from Sudan’s greater capital region—Khartoum, Omdurman, and Bahri—when a violent power struggle erupted in April 2023 between the Sudanese Armed Forces and the RSF, derailing hopes for a transition to civilian rule.
Though the fighting left entire neighborhoods in ruins and basic infrastructure in shambles, there are signs of a tentative return. As the Sudanese army makes gains and reclaims swathes of the capital, some displaced residents are cautiously coming back to assess what remains.
“I came here specifically to assess the situation and see the life, so that my family doesn’t come and get confused about what to do. I came first, and then I can evaluate the situation for them here,” Mohamed explained.
In Omdurman, some areas managed to retain limited access to water and electricity, providing a flicker of stability. Yet, in much of the capital, the scars of war remain deep, and rebuilding efforts have yet to begin in earnest.
Among the returnees is Huda Ibrahim, who had taken refuge in Port Sudan, more than 800 kilometers away. Her voice was resolute as she embarked on her journey home: “We were forced to stay away.”
The driver of her bus, Mohamed Ali, noted a subtle but hopeful shift. “You can sense that their sense of security has grown,” he told Reuters.
Still, many who dream of going home remain hesitant. The conflict has exacted a heavy toll—flattening towns, crippling infrastructure, and leaving millions displaced across the region.
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“Their war now is not a war against the government, it’s a war against the citizens and destruction,” Mohamed said, echoing a sentiment shared by many who feel abandoned by both warring factions.
For those who have returned, survival hinges not only on courage but also on the government’s ability to restore essential services. Rayan Khaled, a young woman who recently returned from Egypt, said that basic utilities like electricity could determine whether people choose to return en masse.
“I believe that if the government could provide electricity to the people […] everyone would return to their homes,” she said.
As Sudan’s military consolidates control and displaced residents trickle back to rebuild their lives, the path to recovery remains uncertain—but the longing for home persists.
